The Isle of Eigg
Before we left for Ireland and Scotland a good friend suggested stopping by the Isle of Eigg, a small island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. Following Eigg’s interesting history of settled as well as unsettled times, the Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust bought the island in 1997 then proceeded to develop their own electricity produced by wind, solar and hydro. Leaving from the Mallaig harbor we could see the Isle of Eigg as we boarded the ferry. This was the smallest ferry we had been on yet and it was full of passengers, luggage and supplies. As we pulled out of the harbor the water was rough and the boat began to rock and roll as we began to make our way towards Eigg and a few passengers were leaning over the side for good reasons. The hour and a half passage came to a welcomed end and we made our way up the pier and over to the Pier Centre which contains a cafe, post office, craft store, grocery store, showers, and a hall that doubles as a gathering space. Our first concern was where we were going to stay and we walked up to Owen who was in charge of the bike rentals located next to the Pier Centre. Owen was the person we had to see because he was also in charge of renting out the pods which were small dwellings up the hill from the center. It didn’t take long before we were moving into a pod while Owen explained the electrical system. Especially at night the island produces too much electricity and they find ways to ‘dump the load’, consequently the pods are heated by electric heaters. The system included a red light that indicated that there was not enough electricity to operate the heaters. While we stayed in the pods we never ran low on electricity and stayed warm along with the welcome ability to dry our wet clothes.
The Isle of Eigg Pier
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The Pier Centre
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The Pods
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After settling in we set off to explore the island and began by hiking to Massacre Cave. In the era of the clans, the MacLeods and McDonalds were rivals and following a dispute the McDonalds (Eigg was McDonald’s territory) hid in a cave while the MacLeods searched the island. Not finding anyone the Macleods gave up and were sailing away when a scout was seen. They turned around and found the scout’s tracks leading to the cave where they then built a fire at the opening and smothered almost 400 of the McDonald clan. We were told the cave was about 15 minutes away, but after walking a half an hour we were not at the cave and the time was getting late and we turned around to get to the grocery store before it closed. When we got to the store we found out that it had closed early that day so we went back to the pod to enjoy apples for dinner. In the morning we set off for Massacre Cave once again and this time we were successful. At first we climbed down to Cathedral Cave, another massive cave in the area then climbed back up the hill where we met people also visiting the caves. We exchanged our information on how to get to the caves and before we carried on the man in the group said he had to be careful visiting Massacre Cave because his last name was McDonald. Mary decided not to climb down to the cave but I wanted to see it so I continued down the slope to the famous cave. I remained in front of the cave for about 15 minutes observing and taking pictures of different kinds of birds flittering about.
Cathedral Cave
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Massacre Cave
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Falls cascading above Massacre cave
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Flowers decorated the cave's entrance
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Birds-Massacre Cave
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Birds-Massacre Cave
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The trail down to Massacre Cave winds down the steep terrain
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A mist of water off the cliffs at Massacre Cave
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Birds-Massacre Cave
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, We returned to the pod for lunch and then set out again, this time the destination was Sgurr, a vertical projection of rock. Owen tells us that it takes an hour and a half round trip if you take time and eat lunch. Winding our way on the path we first pass the Galisdale House, one of three similar houses on the island of historical value. It was important to stay on the path for two good reasons: first reason is to protect the area’s plant life and the second was that the area was extremely soggy. The path is not always obvious and invariably Mary and I would step off the path filling our footwear with water. Other times the path would lead to a body of water where we would look left then right to figure out how to get around the water. I was even walking on the path when I stepped into a not so obvious hole filled up with peaty water up to my knee. When I pulled it out my leg was dark brown with dripping peat. Thank goodness I was wearing shorts. After walking for an hour we came to a steep part of Sgurr where Mary and I started to scramble upwards. Mary decided she didn’t want to go on while I continued up figuring I was almost there. I reached the top of the scramble, hiked for another 15 minutes and saw that I had another 15-20 minutes to go and decided I didn’t want Mary waiting down there for that long so I headed back down. Mary and I hiked down to the pod and realized the people living here had no idea how long it took to hike anywhere on the island even though they had hiked to these places many times. It was obvious to me that they needed and Eigg timer.
Sgurr
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The view of the mainland of Scotland from the top of Sgurr
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The pier from the top of Sgurr
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The Isle of Rum from Sgurr
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The trail on top of Sgurr
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Wind contributes to satisfy the electrical needs of Eigg
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' Along with my wet peat covered leg I went to the center for a shower where Dean, the forester, Alasdair, the 'does everything person' who holds the friendly title as the' mayor', and Donald, a visitor from the mainland were sitting in the gathering space, which was actually the hallway for the Pier Centre with a few chairs along the walls and heated with an electric heater using the extra electricity. The conversation led to bantering and soon we were all laughing. I went in for the shower and when I came out the conversation continued before I returned to the pod for dinner.
The pods were booked for the next two days and we decided to use Charlie’s taxi to make the move to the Gleib Barn, a hostel a couple of miles away. Before we left we walked down to the Pier Centre and there was a poster on the wall letting people know that Blackford was coming to Eigg that day to hold a surgery for an hour and a half. Mary asked what kind of surgery he does and come to find out Blackford is not a doctor at all but a Minister of Parliament and a surgery is a meeting. We made our move to the hostel, ate lunch and walked back to town so we could experience a Scottish meeting with a local politician. On our way to the community center we talked about how both of us had to pay attention to what everyone had to say so we could discuss it later. When we got to the community center no one was there so we continued to the Pier Centre where all of the regulars were standing around. We asked where the meeting was being held and they told us it was going on right then. The minister was upstairs right now with a person. Then Alasdair explained that people meet the minister one on one and citizens come to express their concerns. Blackford was upstairs above the shops with a bottle of whiskey as an offering to the person with the concerns!
Since it was not our place to attend the meeting we started to hike back to Gleib Barn. It was raining but as usual we had our rain gear and started walking another way back past the community planted orchard. We never quite found the orchard and decided instead of hiking back along the road we would take a short cut along the cliffs overlooking the bay. Along the cliffs we couldn't see the bay because of the fog, rain and wind. As we walked along we found ourselves crossing soggy fields and climbing over fences and once again our feet were soaking wet. After walking several miles we saw a road in the distance and continued until we were finally standing on pavement. It was so foggy and rainy we had missed the hostel. Walking down the road for a while we hoped we were making the right turns to get back to the hostel. Then Sara, whom we had met at the pier, pulled over and offered us a ride. Mary and I were so happy as we piled into the back of her Land Rover. Sara asked us where we were going and we told her the Gleib Barn. She drove about 200 feet, stopped and pointed down the driveway and said, “There it is”. The rest of the day was spent reading by the wood stove and drying out our clothes.
The pods were booked for the next two days and we decided to use Charlie’s taxi to make the move to the Gleib Barn, a hostel a couple of miles away. Before we left we walked down to the Pier Centre and there was a poster on the wall letting people know that Blackford was coming to Eigg that day to hold a surgery for an hour and a half. Mary asked what kind of surgery he does and come to find out Blackford is not a doctor at all but a Minister of Parliament and a surgery is a meeting. We made our move to the hostel, ate lunch and walked back to town so we could experience a Scottish meeting with a local politician. On our way to the community center we talked about how both of us had to pay attention to what everyone had to say so we could discuss it later. When we got to the community center no one was there so we continued to the Pier Centre where all of the regulars were standing around. We asked where the meeting was being held and they told us it was going on right then. The minister was upstairs right now with a person. Then Alasdair explained that people meet the minister one on one and citizens come to express their concerns. Blackford was upstairs above the shops with a bottle of whiskey as an offering to the person with the concerns!
Since it was not our place to attend the meeting we started to hike back to Gleib Barn. It was raining but as usual we had our rain gear and started walking another way back past the community planted orchard. We never quite found the orchard and decided instead of hiking back along the road we would take a short cut along the cliffs overlooking the bay. Along the cliffs we couldn't see the bay because of the fog, rain and wind. As we walked along we found ourselves crossing soggy fields and climbing over fences and once again our feet were soaking wet. After walking several miles we saw a road in the distance and continued until we were finally standing on pavement. It was so foggy and rainy we had missed the hostel. Walking down the road for a while we hoped we were making the right turns to get back to the hostel. Then Sara, whom we had met at the pier, pulled over and offered us a ride. Mary and I were so happy as we piled into the back of her Land Rover. Sara asked us where we were going and we told her the Gleib Barn. She drove about 200 feet, stopped and pointed down the driveway and said, “There it is”. The rest of the day was spent reading by the wood stove and drying out our clothes.
The Gleib Barn
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The Manse next to the Gleib Barn is being renovated
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A standing stone near the Gleib Barn
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, The next day after scheduling a tour of the island with Charlie, the taxi driver, we walked to the local school. The quaint school overlooking a dramatic view, had solar panels on the roof. We continued next door to the museum-swap shop. Inside the museum we were looking at the display when Ann, along with her little dog Oree, entered. They had come over on the same ferry as us and as the conversation progressed Mary invited Ann and Oree to come along on the tour of the island. Ann said yes and after finding out that she was staying in a bothy in Cleadale at the other end of the island we parted ways. Back at the Gleib Barn we ate lunch then Charlie picked us up to begin the tour. It is unbelievable, but Charlie seemed to know everything that was happening on the island and he already knew he was picking Ann up in Cleadale. After picking up Ann and Oree, Charlie drove to the end of the road and shut off the engine and turned to Mary and asked, “Scotland or Ireland?” Mary, looking a bit bewildered responded, “Well, we’re in Scotland, so I guess… Scotland.” Charlie reaches to the passenger visor and pulls down a bottle of Scotch whiskey and pours a dram for each of us (not Charlie, he was driving). As we sipped our drams Charlie told us about the island and the people who lived there. One of the things he told us is there are no secrets on the island. Just then a dog was running down the hill towards the taxi and Charlie says, “I know that dog, he’s not supposed to be down here, he has to go home.” He beeps his horn and the dog stopped in his tracks, looked at Charlie, turned around and headed home. I know what the dog was thinking, “there are no secrets on this island, not even for dogs”.
The drams were finished and Charlie started the taxi and drove to the other end of Eigg, on the only main road on the island, all the while telling us about the history and anything else that came to mind. When we reached the pier there was only one thing to do, turn around and head back to Cleadale where we dropped off Ann and Oree. Before Ann left we planned to get together the next day. As Charlie was dropping us off he offered another dram and we accepted to get the chance to listen to Charlie for a short time longer. Charlie got out of the taxi to let us out because the inside handles were broken. I guess I would have to say Charlie’s tour was the best tour I had ever been on. The lifestyles are simple, the road is about the same width as some of our bike trails, there is no wild bar life, this is who they are. We thought we were going to stay for 2 or 3 days and here we were staying for a week. When we entered the hostel we were greeted by a group of college students from the University of Dundee who were visiting the Isle of Eigg to study the application of alternative energy.
The drams were finished and Charlie started the taxi and drove to the other end of Eigg, on the only main road on the island, all the while telling us about the history and anything else that came to mind. When we reached the pier there was only one thing to do, turn around and head back to Cleadale where we dropped off Ann and Oree. Before Ann left we planned to get together the next day. As Charlie was dropping us off he offered another dram and we accepted to get the chance to listen to Charlie for a short time longer. Charlie got out of the taxi to let us out because the inside handles were broken. I guess I would have to say Charlie’s tour was the best tour I had ever been on. The lifestyles are simple, the road is about the same width as some of our bike trails, there is no wild bar life, this is who they are. We thought we were going to stay for 2 or 3 days and here we were staying for a week. When we entered the hostel we were greeted by a group of college students from the University of Dundee who were visiting the Isle of Eigg to study the application of alternative energy.
Eigg's primary school power
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Children sail to distant land on this ship
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This is the swap shop-museum of the Isle of Eigg
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In the morning we sat down with Mohammed from Egypt and since he was our age I asked him if he was a professor and he told us no, he was a student. Mohammed instigated stand-alone solar systems that provided the electricity for satellite dishes for the internet throughout Egypt. There was a lot of resistance for solar power at first, but now is the norm in powering the dishes. He is now enrolled in the University to learn more about alternative energy. Another young man from Lebanon was on the couch while we were talking and told us how he and his father were born in Lebanon but they could never become a citizen because his grandfather was born across the border in Palestine. The conversation then shifted to the subject of a global paradigm shift that was occurring, whether we liked it or not.
We finished our breakfast and proceeded to walk to Cleadale to visit Ann at her artist's bothy, a small one room cabin on the hillside. As we strolled into the village of Cleadale we passed Libby’s (Charlie’s wife) Tearoom, Rest and Be Grateful, and we decided to stop in on our way home. Ann welcomed us and gave us a tour of the bothy as well as the area outside. The view was spectacular with steep cliffs rising behind the cabin and a view of the mountainous Isle of Rumm across the water. Ann made soup for lunch and then with no plans on where we were going we all went our way on a hike. Our first stop was St. Columba’s well. St. Columba, after leaving Ireland, had founded a monastery in 563 AD on the nearby Isle of Iona. In Columba’s time the word saint referred to one who was educated or trained in a monastery. He had visited his friend St. Donnan on the Isle of Eigg and while he was there blessed this well. Wells such as this are thought to have healing powers. We moved onward towards the ‘Singing Sands’ beach and started walking down what looked like a path. One of the fields was an example of a lazy-bed or run-rig system where there were parallel ridges on the field. These ridges were formed by digging into the sod of peat and burying seaweed rinsed of salt for fertilizer and then growing crops, mainly potatoes. Passing through a gate Ann said, “I think that’s a bull lying beside the path, why don’t you go first”. I replied, “I’ve heard that bulls like to chase the second or third person in line.” The bull lazily looked at us as we passed by. Everyone told us we had to visit the ‘Singing Sands’ as it is one of the most popular tourist site on Eigg. We all had a great laugh, a great tourist site, no signs, no discernible path, soggy fields and a bull lying in the field you had to cross! We walked until we reached the cliff and there it was, the path down to the beach. Climbing down and standing on the beach we experienced an incredible view of the Isle of Rumm, which is mostly a nature preserve, usually shrouded in clouds. As we walked along we saw many interesting geological outcroppings in the distance so continued on to see them up close. Then we saw other forms in the distance and kept walking, until we decided to walk to Laig Bay along the rocky shoreline. The rocks were igneous, metamorphic and sedimentary and there definitely had been volcanic activity as shown by the dykes and lava flows. The rocks along the shore had one thing in common; they were extremely slippery, unless they were not, and you could not tell the difference making our progress very slow. After several hours of rock hopping, seaweed sliding and boulder climbing we finally reached Laig Bay, and it was well worth the effort. Our goal from there was to walk out to the road to Rest and Be Thankful, Libby's tearoom, a small greenhouse structure. We knocked on the door of Charlie and Libby’s house and Libby answered and told us to go to the tea room and take a chair from the yard as you go in. Libby served us with tea and lemon cake and afterwards we asked how much we owed. She responded, “There’s no charge, if you feel like donating there is a jar in the corner”. Afterward our well earned break, Ann and Oree parted ways with us and as we left we told her we would be at the pier the next morning to say goodbye as Ann boarded the ferry for her journey home.
We finished our breakfast and proceeded to walk to Cleadale to visit Ann at her artist's bothy, a small one room cabin on the hillside. As we strolled into the village of Cleadale we passed Libby’s (Charlie’s wife) Tearoom, Rest and Be Grateful, and we decided to stop in on our way home. Ann welcomed us and gave us a tour of the bothy as well as the area outside. The view was spectacular with steep cliffs rising behind the cabin and a view of the mountainous Isle of Rumm across the water. Ann made soup for lunch and then with no plans on where we were going we all went our way on a hike. Our first stop was St. Columba’s well. St. Columba, after leaving Ireland, had founded a monastery in 563 AD on the nearby Isle of Iona. In Columba’s time the word saint referred to one who was educated or trained in a monastery. He had visited his friend St. Donnan on the Isle of Eigg and while he was there blessed this well. Wells such as this are thought to have healing powers. We moved onward towards the ‘Singing Sands’ beach and started walking down what looked like a path. One of the fields was an example of a lazy-bed or run-rig system where there were parallel ridges on the field. These ridges were formed by digging into the sod of peat and burying seaweed rinsed of salt for fertilizer and then growing crops, mainly potatoes. Passing through a gate Ann said, “I think that’s a bull lying beside the path, why don’t you go first”. I replied, “I’ve heard that bulls like to chase the second or third person in line.” The bull lazily looked at us as we passed by. Everyone told us we had to visit the ‘Singing Sands’ as it is one of the most popular tourist site on Eigg. We all had a great laugh, a great tourist site, no signs, no discernible path, soggy fields and a bull lying in the field you had to cross! We walked until we reached the cliff and there it was, the path down to the beach. Climbing down and standing on the beach we experienced an incredible view of the Isle of Rumm, which is mostly a nature preserve, usually shrouded in clouds. As we walked along we saw many interesting geological outcroppings in the distance so continued on to see them up close. Then we saw other forms in the distance and kept walking, until we decided to walk to Laig Bay along the rocky shoreline. The rocks were igneous, metamorphic and sedimentary and there definitely had been volcanic activity as shown by the dykes and lava flows. The rocks along the shore had one thing in common; they were extremely slippery, unless they were not, and you could not tell the difference making our progress very slow. After several hours of rock hopping, seaweed sliding and boulder climbing we finally reached Laig Bay, and it was well worth the effort. Our goal from there was to walk out to the road to Rest and Be Thankful, Libby's tearoom, a small greenhouse structure. We knocked on the door of Charlie and Libby’s house and Libby answered and told us to go to the tea room and take a chair from the yard as you go in. Libby served us with tea and lemon cake and afterwards we asked how much we owed. She responded, “There’s no charge, if you feel like donating there is a jar in the corner”. Afterward our well earned break, Ann and Oree parted ways with us and as we left we told her we would be at the pier the next morning to say goodbye as Ann boarded the ferry for her journey home.
View of Sgurr from Cleadale
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The Isle of Eigg's main road
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Village of Cleadale
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Ann's simple bothy
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The sun heated the water and also produced the electricity for the bothy
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The simple stove heated the bothy and also the water
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Oree did not trust this head of a bird with the body of a person
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This work of art was behind Ann's bothy
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God's finger was among the cliffs behind the bothy
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Crofter's house as a museum
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Crofter's bedroom
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Tools of a crofter
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Organic farm near the bothy
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Saint Columba's well
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Ann is explaining the ridges of the lazy-beds
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Singing Sands Beach and the Isle of Rum
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Stones swirl around when filled withe the tides carving out these holes
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Ann and Mary
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Dramatic geological formations
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Holes is the rocks were everywhere
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Falls of the cliffs on the walk to Laig Bay
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The next day we packed up to move back to the pod and say our goodbyes to Ann. Everyone was at the pier and it seemed to be a social event. We said hi to some there and bye to others followed by another attempt to climb Sgurr. Again we passed the Galisdale House and hiked up the soggy trail until we were at the steep scramble part. There was another couple there and it started to rain and Mary and I started putting on our rain gear. The man said, “I wished I packed rain gear, they said it was going to be a dry day”. I shrugged my shoulders and smiled. This time Mary made the climb and hiked to the peak where we ate our lunch. The view at the top was dramatic. The view was 360 degrees and included mountainous islands, the view of the mainland and the town of Mallaig, areas basking in the sunshine, areas with pouring rain along with beautiful clouds. We turned back and headed down Sgurr. By the time we passed the Galisdale House we were very tired. We walked through a field to a gate when we met Christine. As we conversed we realized that she and her husband were the owners of the Galisdale House and she invited us up for a tour. As tired as we were our immediate response was, “Yes”. The three of us walked up to the house and Christine led us through the interior. Christine and her husband John bought the dilapidated house and fixed the structural problems along with finishing it to be a beautiful structure. John had worked for an electric company and was instrumental in developing Eigg’s electrical system. We finished our tour with John telling us about the other houses that were built in the same fashion and in the same time period and had housed the lairds and owners of the island. One of the things I love about the Isle of Eigg is that everyone is important. Each person seems to be famous and holds a position in the history of Eigg. When Mary and I met inhabitant there is a kind of thrill in getting to know a celebrity, but then again they are just ordinary people with an extraordinary vision. It was our last night on the Isle of Eigg.
We packed all of our stuff and headed down to the Pier Centre with our backpacks and went into the café. Tim, a young volunteer from Provenance Rhode Island was sitting at a table and we sat down. It was great talking with Tim because he loved politics and we knew we could always catch up on the news. We seldom heard any US news and Tim kept us informed. We said our goodbyes, boarded the ferry and low and behold, Donald the visitor was also on-board. It was the best way to complete our stay on Eigg.
We packed all of our stuff and headed down to the Pier Centre with our backpacks and went into the café. Tim, a young volunteer from Provenance Rhode Island was sitting at a table and we sat down. It was great talking with Tim because he loved politics and we knew we could always catch up on the news. We seldom heard any US news and Tim kept us informed. We said our goodbyes, boarded the ferry and low and behold, Donald the visitor was also on-board. It was the best way to complete our stay on Eigg.
Sun and rain and clouds are always present
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The top of Sgurr with Mary and the Isle of Rumm in the background
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Sunset over Mallaig
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Alasdair the 'mayor'
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Owen in front of the bike rental shop
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Charlie and Mary
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