Part 2 - The C and O Canal
We all reached Cumberland, Maryland where Mary and I said our goodbyes to our fellow travelers, locked up the bicycles and went shopping for food for our next leg of our journey on the C and O Canal (Chesapeake and Ohio). While we were in town we met two men who had biked the canal several times and described going through muddy sections and advised us to ride through the middle of the mud holes to avoid slipping on the sloping sides and falling. It was about 5:00 and we still had some time to go further so we packed the food and headed to a hiker-biker campsite located alongside the Potomac River. The trail is on the old path used by mules that pulled barges up the canal and as we biked along the next day Mary said, “The mud isn’t that bad, most of the time we can just ride around the puddles. “ I replied, “Let’s not say anything about the mud, you know what happens when we make such statements”.
One of the many locks along the canal
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Making coffee along the canal
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Lock house
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At lunch time and we wanted to bike across the river to Paw Paw, West Virginia to satisfy our hunger so we got off the trail and rode down the paved bike path right to a convenience store where we found our Ohio and Nebraska friends. Their trip was completed and Mr. Ohio’s wife was picking them up. After our goodbyes and eating we headed back to the trail and off to the Paw Paw Tunnel. This tunnel is 3118 feet long and dark so we needed our lights. The canal ran through the tunnel and had a path along side just wide enough for a mule to walk on. Since it is now a bike path there is a wooden fence separating the path and the water in the canal. I stopped part way in to take a picture then hopped back on the bike. I could see, and hear, in the distance some sort of motored vehicle riding slowing up the canal towards me but with my headlight pointing down towards the path, my hands clenched to the handlebar, and my entire focus on not hitting the wall or running into the meager fence separating me from the canal, I couldn’t determine what the heck was moving up the canal. As I passed the vehicle I took a quick look and it was a backhoe moving through the shallow water. After my quick look I couldn’t look left and I couldn’t look right, I could only look straight in front of me so I could see the bumps in the path until I was out of the tunnel. The canal has not been used for many years and some parts are overgrown with trees and grass while others have water with algae and weeds. Both Mary and I expected a regular canal and the diversity in plant life in the canal was surprising.
With no light the tunnel was so dark
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The mule path between the wall and fence
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One's focus still remained after the tunnel to avoid the fence, the bumps on the path and adjusting to the change of light
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Soon after riding through the tunnel it started to rain and as we rode the rain and winds increased. At this point Mary and I had to form a single file as the path began to be muddy and we found riding through the middle of the mud sound advice. The puddles and mud became deeper as the miles pass by. Since we were in a sense riding along in our own little world there was time to consider some of the earlier conversations I had with my brother. We both have strong opinions and while many think that we are arguing and angry during our 'conversations', my brother and I consider it lively debate and always end with laughing and shaking our heads. We both learn from each other and I consider his opinions extremely valuable although when in the middle of the debate I would never admit to this. This website’s foundation is based on five environmental concepts: 1) exponential growth, 2) throughput, 3) Law of Diminishing Returns, 4) Jevon’s Paradox and 5) paradigm change and many of my arguments and opinions stem from these principles. I have to admit to my bias in relating my thoughts during the next few miles of our journey.
It appears to me that global challenges (racial, economic, environmental, etc.) are increasing year after year. How we are to meet these challenges, is the existential question of our times. Throughout the website exponential growth of resource use is addressed in a multiple of ways and these concepts must be conveyed to the global population to begin to mitigate our situation. The huge problem we now face is that we have to greatly reduce our resource use per person, as well as globally, in an economic system that is based on mining, refining, shipping and selling more resources. We all depend on this economic system, yet we need to address this situation head on to survive.
This is where ‘Imagination” plays a part of going forward. Can we imagine a world where wealthy, well educated people take up the task of such a change? With wealth there is access to great amounts of resources. When I was talking with my brother one of the things he said was that he couldn’t imagine a doctor living on a low-throughput homestead because it just takes too much time to grow food, build such a house and all the other chores that go along with such a life style. I totally agreed. The last thing I would want is to have an operation by a part-time doctor who just came in from the fields after planting peas and was still thinking about how to get water to the tomato plants. Imagine a doctor earning a good salary and using the wealth to hire five or more people to build a sustainable homestead with an automatic water collecting system, an edible forest with perennial food crops and other low throughput systems, along with providing the education and skills to others. This inspiration can be taken from the people who worked on Falling Waters who began as unskilled laborers and in time gained through practical work experiences the skills to go forward in life. Another example is the ‘New Deal’ era where workers built trails, made art, worked on buildings and gained skills while earning needed money. It could be the wealthy with access to resources that could provide a piece of the picture that would ensure the survival of future generations. It may also include a technological fix on a grand scale, however, such a fix will require a huge amount of resources and if the general population is using up more aand more resources we are fighting over the remainder of the resources there will be little or nothing left to do what we need to do. Many of the poor have no choice other than live a low throughput lifestyle but the wealthy have the opportunity to experience true human freedom in that they themselves can choose a low throughput lifestyle and use the remaining access to resources to help others to do the same. These individuals would be considered heroes by future generations.
It appears to me that global challenges (racial, economic, environmental, etc.) are increasing year after year. How we are to meet these challenges, is the existential question of our times. Throughout the website exponential growth of resource use is addressed in a multiple of ways and these concepts must be conveyed to the global population to begin to mitigate our situation. The huge problem we now face is that we have to greatly reduce our resource use per person, as well as globally, in an economic system that is based on mining, refining, shipping and selling more resources. We all depend on this economic system, yet we need to address this situation head on to survive.
This is where ‘Imagination” plays a part of going forward. Can we imagine a world where wealthy, well educated people take up the task of such a change? With wealth there is access to great amounts of resources. When I was talking with my brother one of the things he said was that he couldn’t imagine a doctor living on a low-throughput homestead because it just takes too much time to grow food, build such a house and all the other chores that go along with such a life style. I totally agreed. The last thing I would want is to have an operation by a part-time doctor who just came in from the fields after planting peas and was still thinking about how to get water to the tomato plants. Imagine a doctor earning a good salary and using the wealth to hire five or more people to build a sustainable homestead with an automatic water collecting system, an edible forest with perennial food crops and other low throughput systems, along with providing the education and skills to others. This inspiration can be taken from the people who worked on Falling Waters who began as unskilled laborers and in time gained through practical work experiences the skills to go forward in life. Another example is the ‘New Deal’ era where workers built trails, made art, worked on buildings and gained skills while earning needed money. It could be the wealthy with access to resources that could provide a piece of the picture that would ensure the survival of future generations. It may also include a technological fix on a grand scale, however, such a fix will require a huge amount of resources and if the general population is using up more aand more resources we are fighting over the remainder of the resources there will be little or nothing left to do what we need to do. Many of the poor have no choice other than live a low throughput lifestyle but the wealthy have the opportunity to experience true human freedom in that they themselves can choose a low throughput lifestyle and use the remaining access to resources to help others to do the same. These individuals would be considered heroes by future generations.
My thoughts return to mud. At the bottom of many of tje puddles were hidden holes that hit hard and with my still bruised, well…. You may be asking yourselves why anyone would put themselves through all this. At times like these we also ask the same question. It’s the times between when you’re gliding through the natural surroundings, meeting all types of people and all the diverse situations that definitely make up for our sore butts and muddy legs and bicycles. We kept hearing from other C and O biking travelers about Bill’s Bar located in Little Orleans, MD and we looked forward to staying in the Lodge located in the town and washing off all the mud. When at last we got to Bill’s we found that no one there knew if the Lodge was even open, and even if it was the bridge was out, and the detour was a few miles uphill. We proceeded to order two Yuenglings and the Maryland crab soup and began talking with the locals at the bar. The town we had expected didn’t exist but we were given a suggestion to go to the campground at the top of the hill. One man offered to drive us up in his pickup truck but with our heavy and very muddy packs we thought it would be just as easy to ride to the campground. We finished the food and drink and said goodbye and with 'goodbye and good luck' we headed to the campground. Somehow we didn’t understand how long and how steep the hill was and we pushed our way to the campground hoping the incoming rains would holdoff. After signing in the owner personally walked us over to the site and asked if there was anything else we needed. We set up the tent under a big tree to shelter us from any rain through the night and then took the best hot showers since starting the trip, ate our dinner, did a load of wash and laid down early to bed. I don’t know what time it was when the winds started to blow but I started to think it may have been a bad idea to place the tent under this tree. I was tired and fell back to sleep but Mary couldn’t and worried all night. In the morning I woke early and went to the bathhouse only to find no lights and realized the electricity was out. I talked to the owner and he verified my assumptions and said with a smile on his face, “What do you need electricity for, you’re camping in a tent”? I laughed and said, “We did want to charge our phones”? He smiled again and replied, “What for, there’s no cell service anyway”? He then directed us to the office where there was a running generator and where we could plug in.
In many places the old canal is covered with algae and pond weeds
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As the rain fell the path became muddy along with puddles of water
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Some places to stay along the way had hoses to clean off bikes
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We finished breakfast and rode back past Bill’s and picked up the Western Maryland Trail which paralleled the C and O Canal Trail but was paved. This trail went for about 40 miles to Williamsport where we had lunch at Rose’s Café and stayed in a motel for the night. The next morning we went back to Rose’s Café for breakfast. Bonny was the waitress who was expecting a child and about a month ago her house had burned down and they lost their family dog and cat. We felt so lucky that there was a bike detour off the trail and through the town and the chance to meet Bonny. In spite of all that has happened to her and her family she was thankful that her children and family members were not at home and how the community has helped her out.
The bottom of this lock is now covered with grass
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Miles of light shinning through the trees
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The path along the Potomac is where the mules used the river instead of the canal
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Kayaker enjoying the rapids below the dam
While at Rose’s Café we checked the weather and saw predictions for upcoming torrential rains and after our rain riding on the C and O Canal experience we decided to end our trip in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. In checking the map there was a hiker-biker campsite just before the town situated on the Potomac River. I could just see George Washington sitting there years ago. From this site the next day would be a short ride to the historic town of Harpers Ferry. When we reached the campsite there appeared to be someone living there and with scattered broken bottles Mary had a bad feeling about the site and suggested a hostel several miles away. By this time I was tired and tried my best to convince Mary to stay even using the possibility of Washington having stopped there but finally we were back on our bikes heading towards the hostel. Two miles later we came across a huge overhead train trestle with stairs leading up to it and a walk-way over to Harpers Ferry. People were walking to and from the town and I finally asked how we could get over to the town on our bikes and the answer was, “You have to carry your bikes up the stairs and walk it across”. I searched for a second and third opinion but it always turned out the same. It was unbelievable but true. ‘What kind of town would have such a setup? ’ Our new updated plan was to stay at the hostel which would only be a little over a mile further and make our way back to see the town the next day. We made our way down the trail and called the hostel a few times along the way to clarify the directions and were told to keep looking for the railroad crossing. It was two miles before we saw the crossing and asked a family about the location of the hostel and they pointed up the steep hill. I couldn’t help but think how nice it would be to be sitting along the Potomac where Washington might have sat. We pushed our way to the hostel, I set up the tent and climbed in. Mary asked if I wanted to shower and eat and I replied, “NO”. A while later Mary brought me a hot dinner and I said I didn’t want it but she left it and after she walked away I gobbled it down. I kept thinking this whole situation will never be funny. I recovered the next day and even the thought that it would never be funny began to be funny.
The next day we packed up and rode back to the trestle, climbed the stairs with our bikes and packs and headed into town. Harpers Ferry, with the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers is strategically located between the North and the South. The town became a center for producing munitions after Washington decided that our country could no longer depend on France but needed our own ammunition production facilities. The area had the coal for the fuel, the iron ore for the steel, and the trees that provided the wood for the gun stocks, as well as the rivers for transportation. Harper’s Ferry also was the center of tension between the North and South. In 1859 the abolitionist John Brown staged an uprising by taking over the armory in the hopes of freeing the slaves. The uprising failed and John Brown was executed, however, this event was one of the sparks that ignited the Civil War. Since Harpers Ferry was such a strategic town it was fought over by the North and South during the war. As a National Park, the museums are free and offer an excellent account of the history of the area. It was well worth the effort to get there.
The steps up to the walkway on the trestle
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Repacking the bikes on the trestle
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The train from Harpers Ferry travels over the same trestle as the walkway and through the tunnel at the far end
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John Brown's fort
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Harpers Ferry is a popular stopping point along the Appalachan Trail
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Many of the old buildings are museums open to the public
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It was the end of our trip and in the morning we packed and rode to the train station where we waited for the delayed Amtrak. While waiting we met two hikers. One young man along with his cat and the other a young woman were both on their way to Maine along the Appalachian Trail which passes through Harpers Ferry. When the train arrived we rolled our bicycles on and off we went on our way to Washington D. C.
Train moving from the tunnel past the train station
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The traveling cat
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Graffiti on the sides of trains are often beautiful and interesting works of art
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Our bikes are loaded on the train as we headed to D. C.
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Back in 1973 I was introduced to the concepts in Limits to Growth, a book that changed my life. It held a new way of global thinking and like all new ideas has taken many years to see its wisdom. This book is a global paradigm changer! The old paradigm is cemented into place and only erodes a piece at a time until large chunks start falling away. When huge problems begin to mount and the existing paradigm fails to offer solutions a new paradigm starts to take hold. It is interesting to observe today’s situation and wonder how we can dramatically increase the amount of resources needed to meet all the demands to solve the challenges. Globally there is an explosion of the amount of currency along with debt in the hopes that somehow the mining, refining and shipping of resources will increase to meet these demands but to no avail. Our collective efforts have to discover ways to move to a low throughput society, one in which we blend with nature while at the same time use our technological inventiveness to overcome our challenges. We can do this, but not if we are increasing atmospheric carbon dioxide to unsustainable levels, if Congolese children are mining resources needed for our smart phones, and if migrants are incarcerated for fleeing a country that no longer can feed them. This is a critical time period and we are lucky to experience it and to be able to join in this huge shift in consciousness. There have been only a few such periods in our human existence: 1) the hunter-gather period lasting up to 100,000 years, 2) the agricultural period lasting 10,000 years, 3) the Industrial Age lasting about 300 years and 4) the computer age in my lifetime. Each of these major paradigm shifts had an increase in the resources needed to maintain the societal needs and each in its later stage was met with mounting challenges and shifted to meet the demands. The amount of time each paradigm lasted diminished with the needed increase in resources and each of these paradigms considered resources unlimited. Will we choose an increase in the mobilization of resources to meet these challenges we now face with a short paradigm lifespan or move to a low throughput culture? We are now faced with the realization that there is a limit and our choice is to learn how to share or to fight over the remainder and winner takes all. By choosing to share we could mobilize a global educated labor force all focused in lowering throughput and healing the Earth.
Our train arrived in D. C. and we rolled our bikes off the train and pushed them to a tiny elevator. We waited in line until it was our turn and stuffed our bikes along with ourselves in and finally got the door closed. When we reached our level another door opened and Mary and I couldn’t get our bikes out. We had to lift my bike up to a vertical position with the packs still on while the door kept trying to close and a recording repeating, “going down”. After our laughing episode we pushed our way out of Union Station where we discovered that according to the bike route on global maps we were only 7 minutes away from our motel. With all the roads going every which way it was hard to tell which road we had to take but that didn’t stop us. We crossed over a busy street, then another then decided to cross back over to almost where we began. We started actually riding towards our destination and occasionally looking at global maps and after 15 minutes of riding we were only 8 minutes away. Many times traveling on bicycle is very similar to being in ‘The Twilight Zone”.
Our train arrived in D. C. and we rolled our bikes off the train and pushed them to a tiny elevator. We waited in line until it was our turn and stuffed our bikes along with ourselves in and finally got the door closed. When we reached our level another door opened and Mary and I couldn’t get our bikes out. We had to lift my bike up to a vertical position with the packs still on while the door kept trying to close and a recording repeating, “going down”. After our laughing episode we pushed our way out of Union Station where we discovered that according to the bike route on global maps we were only 7 minutes away from our motel. With all the roads going every which way it was hard to tell which road we had to take but that didn’t stop us. We crossed over a busy street, then another then decided to cross back over to almost where we began. We started actually riding towards our destination and occasionally looking at global maps and after 15 minutes of riding we were only 8 minutes away. Many times traveling on bicycle is very similar to being in ‘The Twilight Zone”.
The capitol from Union Station
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Catching up on the news and relaxing in the motel
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Tents are set up under bridges and overhead outcroppings to protect from the rain
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We spent the night in the motel catching up on the news and the following morning made our way back to Union Station passing people living in tents on the streets of our nation's capitol. "Ten days on the road and we're gonna make it home tonight". (from 'Six Days on the Road' by Dave Dudly)
